A municipality read from its two rivers

Chongqing.

The city between the rivers, and the country around it

Chongqing is a municipality the size of a small country, and most of it is not the city. Two rivers meet on a rock peninsula and the streets climb it as stairs. North of that rise the Daba mountains; south lie the limestone of Wulong and the Tujia counties; east run the Three Gorges and the county seats the reservoir moved. Read outward from the water.

Chaotianmen

Everything here follows from the junction at Chaotianmen, where the Jialing joins the Yangtze and the water changes colour. Start on the steps above the confluence, then follow the river east into the gorges and west onto the plain.

Explore this place

Begin with the classics

Three places open the three landscapes beyond the city.

Dazu Rock Carvings

Dazu District

Dazu Rock Carvings

The Baoding cliff, where Song and Yuan figures fill half a kilometre of open rock face.

Baidicheng

Fengjie

Baidicheng

The fortified hill at the mouth of the Qutang Gorge, named for a white dragon, walled by the Southern Song and turned into an island by the reservoir.

Look a little closer

Follow a migration, a drowned archive of river levels, and a dragon made of bamboo and paper.

  1. The Qing hall where merchants from Huguang and Guangdong kept their gods, their business and their hold on the city.

  2. How a natural stone ridge in the Fuling reach of the Yangtze became a hydrological record, and how it came to be sealed inside a glass-walled shell under the reservoir.

  3. The dragon is a constructed object with a calendar inside it, and the craft that makes it is now listed alongside the dance.

Keep exploring

Choose a city: start with its highlights or continue reading in the full article collection.

Fuling

The district where the Wu River meets the Yangtze, with the Baihelian stone inscriptions sealed under the reservoir.

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Hechuan

Three rivers meet here, and above the confluence a fortress held out against the Mongols for thirty-six years.

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Fengjie

The county at the head of the Qutang Gorge, a poetry county that moved 128,000 people for the reservoir and grows navel oranges above the water.

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Yunyang

A reservoir county that moved its seat further than any other, and now looks across the water at a temple it also moved.

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Wuxi

The upper Daning county under the Daba Mountains, with a salt town, cliff coffins and a cold plateau in the north-west.

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Fengdu

The county whose hill of underworld temples gave it a second name, and whose old seat now lies under the reservoir.

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Jiangjin

The district at the tail of the reservoir, named for a key ford, with old towns, a marshal's birthplace and a sorghum trade.

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Shapingba District

The wartime capital's university and arsenal district on the west bank of the Jialing, where the Shaci culture area grew up around the people and plants that arrived after 1937.

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Jiulongpo District

The heavy-industrial district split by the Zhongliang ridge, with the fine arts college at Huangjueping on the water and the old post-road towns in its west.

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Qijiang

The southern district of limestone, coal and a salt road, with a county town first set up in 619 still standing in its hills.

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Wulong

The karst district on the lower Wu River, where three limestone spans, a river cave and a grassland plateau sit inside one World Heritage listing.

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Yongchuan

The western district of bamboo forest and river wharves, named for three rivers meeting in the shape of a written character.

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Tongliang

The district of the bamboo-framed dragon, with a county town that was dissolved into a neighbour and later came back.

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Bishan

The small western district that rebuilt its connections to Chongqing with a metro line, a high-speed railway and a driverless rubber-tyred train.

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Photo credits and rights
  1. Dazu Rock CarvingsTruthven / CC BY-SA 3.0 · CC BY-SA 3.0 Photo source ↗ Rights information ↗
  2. BaidichengUser:唐戈(User:Gisling) / CC BY-SA 3.0 · CC BY-SA 3.0 Photo source ↗ Rights information ↗