Dazu District
Dazu Rock Carvings
The Baoding cliff, where Song and Yuan figures fill half a kilometre of open rock face.
A municipality read from its two rivers
The city between the rivers, and the country around it
Chongqing is a municipality the size of a small country, and most of it is not the city. Two rivers meet on a rock peninsula and the streets climb it as stairs. North of that rise the Daba mountains; south lie the limestone of Wulong and the Tujia counties; east run the Three Gorges and the county seats the reservoir moved. Read outward from the water.
Chaotianmen
Three places open the three landscapes beyond the city.
Dazu District
The Baoding cliff, where Song and Yuan figures fill half a kilometre of open rock face.
Fengjie
The fortified hill at the mouth of the Qutang Gorge, named for a white dragon, walled by the Southern Song and turned into an island by the reservoir.
Follow a migration, a drowned archive of river levels, and a dragon made of bamboo and paper.
From the journal
The Qing hall where merchants from Huguang and Guangdong kept their gods, their business and their hold on the city.
From the journal
How a natural stone ridge in the Fuling reach of the Yangtze became a hydrological record, and how it came to be sealed inside a glass-walled shell under the reservoir.
The dragon is a constructed object with a calendar inside it, and the craft that makes it is now listed alongside the dance.
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The district west of Chongqing whose hillsides carry the Dazu Rock Carvings.
All articlesThe north-western district of Chongqing, built around the Fu river, a gilt Buddha and two river towns.
All articlesThe district where the Wu River meets the Yangtze, with the Baihelian stone inscriptions sealed under the reservoir.
All articlesA Yangtze district of chemical industry and a man-made lake, eighty kilometres downstream of downtown Chongqing.
All articlesThree rivers meet here, and above the confluence a fortress held out against the Mongols for thirty-six years.
All articlesThe westernmost district of Chongqing, known for its pigs, its pottery and the hemp of the plain.
All articlesThe north-eastern district where the Xiao River backs up into the Three Gorges reservoir, and where a lake was built over the drawdown zone.
All articlesChongqing's northernmost county, set on the southern foot of the Daba Mountains against the Shaanxi border.
All articlesThe plain district under Gaoliang Mountain, known for bamboo blinds, New Year prints and a Chan temple.
All articlesThe county in the middle of Chongqing that calls itself the home of the national-flower peony.
All articlesThe district south of the Yangtze, once Ba County, with the wartime sites at Nanquan and the river towns of Mudong and Fengsheng.
All articlesThe great river port of the Three Gorges reservoir, half of whose old town was moved when the water rose.
All articlesThe riverfront at Jiangbeizui and the old town of Longxing open two views of Liangjiang New Area.
All articlesThe county at the head of the Qutang Gorge, a poetry county that moved 128,000 people for the reservoir and grows navel oranges above the water.
All articlesA reservoir county that moved its seat further than any other, and now looks across the water at a temple it also moved.
All articlesChongqing's easternmost county, straddling the Wu Gorge where the Daning River comes in.
All articlesThe upper Daning county under the Daba Mountains, with a salt town, cliff coffins and a cold plateau in the north-west.
All articlesThe county whose hill of underworld temples gave it a second name, and whose old seat now lies under the reservoir.
All articlesThe loyalty county, with a timber tower on a river rock and the last basket ferry on this stretch of the Yangtze.
All articlesThe district at the tail of the reservoir, named for a key ford, with old towns, a marshal's birthplace and a sorghum trade.
All articlesThe peninsula between the Jialing and the Yangtze, where the city began and where its stairs, gates, guild houses and monument still stand.
All articlesThe south bank, where the Yangtze bends around the old wharves at Longmenhao and the road climbs to the wartime villas.
All articlesThe steel district on the south-west bank, cut out of Jiulongpo in 1965 and named after a free ferry.
All articlesThe wartime capital's university and arsenal district on the west bank of the Jialing, where the Shaci culture area grew up around the people and plants that arrived after 1937.
All articlesThe heavy-industrial district split by the Zhongliang ridge, with the fine arts college at Huangjueping on the water and the old post-road towns in its west.
All articlesThe southern district of limestone, coal and a salt road, with a county town first set up in 619 still standing in its hills.
All articlesIn Beibei, the Jialing River connects memories of Lu Zuofu and the wartime city.
All articlesThe karst district on the lower Wu River, where three limestone spans, a river cave and a grassland plateau sit inside one World Heritage listing.
All articlesThe western district of bamboo forest and river wharves, named for three rivers meeting in the shape of a written character.
All articlesThe district of the bamboo-framed dragon, with a county town that was dissolved into a neighbour and later came back.
All articlesThe small western district that rebuilt its connections to Chongqing with a metro line, a high-speed railway and a driverless rubber-tyred train.
All articlesThe old autonomous county at the south-eastern corner of Chongqing, where the Wuling mountains meet Hubei.
All articlesChongqing's southernmost county, at the corner where four provinces meet and the Miao country begins.
All articlesThe largest county in Chongqing, between the Wu River and the Youshui, with the Peach Blossom Spring and two river towns.
All articlesThe Miao-majority county on the lower Wu River, in a valley its own geographers call two mountains and one trough.
All articlesThe Tujia county on the south bank of the Yangtze, with a river port, a cold forest and a crop of bitter root.
All articlesThe district south of the city where the Dalou range ends in a karst table mountain, a bamboo crop and a high forest park.
All articles