From the journal

More Than an Autumn Scene: Taiyanggou’s Streets and Successive Lives

The quarter’s trees frame a history of planning, domestic buildings and institutions that continued to change after the colonial era.

In the same city · Dalian ↗

A new town beside an older one

Taiyanggou’s street pattern belongs to a planned expansion of Lüshun. Local historical reporting describes the Russian new quarter laid out west of the Long River in 1899, distinct from the older Qing town to the east. The distinction is important: the planned district did not replace an empty landscape without a history.

Street plans outlive many of their original users. Their widths, alignments and blocks continue to influence how buildings address the road and how people understand distance within a district. In Taiyanggou, that inherited framework provides continuity across successive regimes, while the buildings within it reveal that construction did not stop with the first plan.

A quarter with more than one architectural voice

Japanese-period building added another layer, including red-brick residences. The distinction between domestic and institutional architecture is as useful as the distinction between Russian and Japanese periods. A house, office and museum organise thresholds and public presence differently, even when they share the same street.

Lüshun Museum provides a particularly clear institutional example. Its main building, opened in 1918, was designed by Matsumuro Shigemitsu on earlier Russian foundations. That sequence resists the easy label of an entirely “Russian town.” A building’s appearance, patron, designer and underlying fabric may point to different parts of the district’s history.

The trees have different ages too

Ginkgoes, maples and zelkovas contribute to Taiyanggou’s autumn reputation. Xinhua’s 2023 reporting identifies streets including Xinhua, Dongming, Leyuan and Baishan within this seasonal landscape. It also records that warm weather delayed colouring that year, a useful reminder that foliage does not follow a fixed annual appointment.

The trees should not all be treated as witnesses to the earliest planning period. A local historical account records cherry planting on Stalin Road in 1974. Later planting is part of the quarter’s history, not an intrusion to be edited out of it. Architecture can survive for a century while the vegetation around it is renewed, extended or replaced.

A quarter assembled over time

Taiyanggou’s red-brick houses, museum and lines of trees belong to different periods, yet the inherited street plan brings them together. The blocks laid out under Russian rule held later Japanese residences; still later planting changed the view along their façades.

Autumn briefly makes the trees the district’s most conspicuous feature. Behind the leaves remain the alignments and buildings around which successive generations have planted, built and moved.

Continue exploring · Taiyanggou Historic Quarter ↗