From the journal

Jinzhou Barbecue: The Work behind a Shared Table

Turning, brushing and judging the heat are the small decisions that make a barbecue meal more than a row of skewers.

Four flat metal skewers hold browned meat sprinkled with sesame seeds and red seasoning against a dark background.
Seasoned skewers used to illustrate Jinzhou barbecue by Liaoning’s culture and tourism department.

Watch the hands

A 2025 People’s Daily report begins with Jinzhou cook Li Bo working the grill, turning metal skewers and adding seasoning with practiced movements. He had spent more than thirty years in the trade. The movements coordinated heat, seasoning and the changing surface of the meat.

Another cook, Xia Lei, was photographed demonstrating traditional techniques at the city’s Barbecue Museum. Their comments followed the national recognition of barbecue cook as an occupational category in 2025. A familiar evening meal was also skilled work with a name.

What reaches the fire

Local descriptions distinguish shengkao, grilling ingredients from raw, from shukao, giving previously cooked food a further turn over the heat. The difference changes the cook’s task. Bringing an ingredient through cooking and finishing its surface are related operations, but they demand different timing.

The Liaoning commerce department lists dipping, brushing, sprinkling, grilling and turning among the techniques. These are a repertoire, not five mandatory steps in a fixed order. Seasoning can be adjusted; the point is control over each item rather than treating everything as the same skewer.

Several textures at one table

A CCTV food account offers a useful glimpse of the range: lamb skewers, lamb elbow bones, chicken feet and mantis shrimp. The list connects pasture and coast, soft pieces and food that asks for more patient handling. It also explains why one universal cooking time would make little sense.

Small portions make comparison and sharing easy. Different textures and degrees of seasoning arrive in successive batches, giving the shared table a rhythm tied to the grill. The cook’s repeated choices become part of the diners’ social time.

Food in public life

Jinzhou’s 2025 barbecue season paired food with sporting events, performances and weekend cultural activity. The programme shows how a local craft can organise a public occasion as well as a dinner. The grill supplies a practical centre of attention, while eating gives people a reason to stay.

The city’s food culture thus has several workplaces: the restaurant grill, the museum demonstration and the public festival. Li Bo’s long practice and Xia Lei’s demonstration connect everyday service with the passing on of a recognised craft.

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Photo credits and rights
  1. Seasoned skewers used to illustrate Jinzhou barbecue by Liaoning’s culture and tourism department.Source: Liaoning Provincial Department of Culture and Tourism, Resource Development Division. Photographer and image license not stated. · Rights status unknown Photo source ↗ Original aspect ratio retained. Display copies resized only when needed; no enlargement, crop or retouching.