From the journal

The Clock Above a River Port

At Hankou, the Han–Yangtze confluence, former concessions and the 1924 Jianghan Customs House reveal a port city’s changing streets.

In the same city · Wuhan ↗
The facade of Hankou Railway Station with its two clock towers rising above the roofline.
The facade of Hankou Railway Station with its two clock towers rising above the roofline.

Where the Han meets the Yangtze

Hankou takes its name from the mouth of the Han River where it joins the Yangtze. This is a river confluence, not an outlet to the sea. The meeting of waterways helped the town become an important trading centre before its nineteenth-century development as a treaty port. Hankou, Hanyang and Wuchang now form the historic Three Towns of Wuhan, each with its own relationship to the two rivers.

A carved stele marks the site of the former French concession in Hankou.
A carved stele marks the site of the former French concession in Hankou.

Trade leaves buildings behind

British, Russian, French, German and Japanese concessions developed along the Hankou riverfront. Banks, commercial premises, religious buildings and former consulates give the streets different architectural accents. These structures preserve parts of a history of foreign privilege and expanding commerce. Reading their individual uses is more revealing than imagining a single uniform “foreign quarter” or treating every building as contemporary with the opening of the port.

The Russian Orthodox church of Hankou, its green onion dome rising above the surrounding roofs.
The Russian Orthodox church of Hankou, its green onion dome rising above the surrounding roofs.

The clock is younger than the port

The surviving Jianghan Customs House at the river end of Jianghan Road was completed on 21 January 1924. Its clock tower became a familiar marker on the waterfront, and the building later became a museum. The façade faces a port whose commercial history was already long established. A clock high above the street gave that busy landscape a shared public time, while the building’s present use preserves rooms and records from the customs service.

Continue exploring · Hankou ↗
Photo credits and rights
  1. The facade of Hankou Railway Station with its two clock towers rising above the roofline.Baycrest / CC BY-SA 2.5 · CC BY-SA 2.5 Photo source ↗ Rights information ↗
  2. A carved stele marks the site of the former French concession in Hankou.Zicheng zic / CC BY 4.0 · CC BY 4.0 Photo source ↗ Rights information ↗
  3. The Russian Orthodox church of Hankou, its green onion dome rising above the surrounding roofs.Zicheng zic / CC BY 4.0 · CC BY 4.0 Photo source ↗ Rights information ↗