A province read through its lake, its stone and its working hands

Hunan.

Four landscapes, one river spine

Hunan is smaller than its neighbours and more varied than its map suggests. In the north lies the Dongting Lake plain, where a ferry town wrote China's most quoted tower essay. The Xiang runs through the middle: Changsha, Xiangtan and Hengyang are river cities first. In the west the Wuling range lifts quartz sandstone into pillars, and Tujia and Miao villages keep wooden houses over the water. In the south the hills turn red, Langshan's Danxia cliffs stand beside granite Hengshan, and Yongzhou keeps old gates. Craft holds it together: embroidery, ceramics, bamboo paper, tea bricks, fireworks.

Yueyang Tower's yellow-tiled eaves and dark timber galleries, seen from the side of its stone terrace.

Yueyang Tower

Yueyang Tower stands on the shore of Dongting Lake, and the essay written about it is known by heart in China. Opening with the tower and the lake sets the water and the words before the pillars and the old towns arrive.

Explore this place

Begin with the classics

Four places that show how far one province can stretch.

The wooded length of Orange Isle lies in the Xiang, with Yuelu Mountain and its transmission tower on the far bank.

Changsha

Orange Isle

Orange Isle is a five-kilometre sandbar in the middle of the Xiang at Changsha, a park crowned by a sculpture of the young Mao Zedong.

Sandstone pillars stand in ranks below the viewpoint on Tianzi Mountain, their tops level with the forested ridge.

Zhangjiajie

Wulingyuan

A scenic area of more than three thousand quartz sandstone pillars that became a World Heritage Site in 1992.

Banners for the old guild halls hang above the stone street that runs through the gate of Hongjiang's commercial quarter.

Huaihua

Hongjiang Ancient Commercial Town

The old river-port town where the Yuan river trade accumulated, remembered as China's only intact Ming-Qing commercial city.

Layered forested ridges of the Hengshan range recede under a streaked blue sky.

Hengyang

Hengshan

Hengshan, the Southern Sacred Mountain, is a granite massif of temples that rises from the plain north of Hengyang.

Look a little closer

Four longer reads, each following its own thread.

  1. Changsha has been organised by the Xiang River for two thousand years. The crossing that joined the banks by boat and bridge, the port that made Changsha a rice market, and the river still running through the present city are three faces of the same water.

  2. At Miluo, the poet Qu Yuan walked into the river in 278 BC, and the boats that went after him became dragon boat racing. The story, the races and the festival that now fills the national calendar begin on this water.

  3. Anhua County presses dark tea into bricks and logs that were built to travel. The leaf, the road it took and the county that still makes it are the three stages of a mountain product's long journey to market, from caravan to domestic table.

  4. Shanggantang is a Zhou-family village of Ming and Qing houses in Jiangyong County, with a stone bridge at its gate that has stood since 1126. The Buyin Bridge carried the old post road, and the village was listed as a historic Chinese village in 2007.

Keep exploring

Choose a city: start with its highlights or continue reading in the full article collection.

Changsha

Hunan's capital spreads along the Xiang River, a city of kilns, academies and rice trade rebuilt on the same bank for 2,400 years.

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Zhuzhou

Zhuzhou, where China's two great north-south and east-west railways cross, is Hunan's rail and industrial city with the Yan Emperor's tomb in its southern hills.

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Xiangtan

Xiangtan, the old river port once called Little Nanjing, is the Xiang River prefecture that raised Mao Zedong, Peng Dehuai and Qi Baishi.

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Yiyang

Yiyang stands on the Zi River at the southern edge of Dongting Lake, a bamboo and rice city that ships Anhua's dark tea bricks.

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Loudi

Loudi, Hunan's central rail and steel city on the eastern edge of the Xuefeng range, is the gateway to the Meishan highlands of Xinhua.

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Changde

A Yuan River city in northwest Hunan, ancient Wuling, trading gateway to the southwest and claimant of the Peach Blossom Spring.

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Huaihua

Hunan's largest prefecture-level city by area, a mountain rail junction where five main lines meet on the upper Yuan river.

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Xiangxi

The Tujia and Miao Autonomous Prefecture at Hunan's western edge, run from Jishou with seven mountain counties around it.

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Yongzhou

An old southern prefecture in Hunan where the Xiao and Xiang rivers meet and a school of philosophy took its name.

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Photo credits and rights
  1. Yueyang Tower's yellow-tiled eaves and dark timber galleries, seen from the side of its stone terrace.Huangdan2060 / CC0 · CC0 Photo source ↗ Rights information ↗
  2. The wooded length of Orange Isle lies in the Xiang, with Yuelu Mountain and its transmission tower on the far bank.維基小霸王 / CC BY-SA 4.0 · CC BY-SA 4.0 Photo source ↗ Rights information ↗
  3. Sandstone pillars stand in ranks below the viewpoint on Tianzi Mountain, their tops level with the forested ridge.chensiyuan / CC BY-SA 4.0 · CC BY-SA 4.0 Photo source ↗ Rights information ↗
  4. Banners for the old guild halls hang above the stone street that runs through the gate of Hongjiang's commercial quarter.Ninedyz / CC BY-SA 4.0 · CC BY-SA 4.0 Photo source ↗ Rights information ↗
  5. Layered forested ridges of the Hengshan range recede under a streaked blue sky.牛糞 / CC BY-SA 3.0 · CC BY-SA 3.0 Photo source ↗ Rights information ↗