Changde.

Changde occupies the northwest of Hunan, where the Yuan and Li rivers come down from the mountains to the western edge of Dongting Lake. Known in ancient times as Wuling, it began as a Qin walled settlement more than 2,200 years ago and has carried its present name since the twelfth century. Its position made it the throat of Sichuan and Guizhou and the gateway to Yunnan and Guizhou: goods from the western mountains changed here from river boats to lake boats, and by the early twentieth century Changde was Hunan's second city after Changsha. The 1943 Battle of Changde, in which invading Japanese forces used chemical weapons, is the city's wound. Today tobacco is its biggest industry, a wall of engraved poetry runs along its riverfront, and in Taoyuan County it keeps the valley that claims to be the Peach Blossom Spring.

A long stone wall with a carved landscape panel and rows of inscribed poem tablets under a painted eave
A long engraved landscape panel and rows of poem steles line the covered gallery of Changde's Poetry Wall.

Changde

A wide stone-paved street between grey brick shopfronts leading to a wooden memorial archway

The spring no one could find again

In 421 CE Tao Yuanming wrote of a fisherman who found a hidden village through the peach blossom and could never find it again. This is the tale, the Changde valley that claims it, and the idiom the story left behind.

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Photo credits and rights
  1. A long engraved landscape panel and rows of poem steles line the covered gallery of Changde's Poetry Wall.Metal.lunchbox / CC BY 3.0 · CC BY 3.0 Photo source ↗ Rights information ↗
  2. A stone-paved street of grey-brick shops leads to the memorial archway of the Taohuayuan scenic area, tour buses waiting beyond.Huangdan2060 / CC BY 3.0 · CC BY 3.0 Photo source ↗ Rights information ↗
  3. Pontoons and moored yachts at the cruise pier on Liuye Lake, with the ferris wheel faint on the far shore.Uuongkinghe / CC BY-SA 4.0 · CC BY-SA 4.0 Photo source ↗ Rights information ↗
  4. Two fishermen work from a small boat on the Yuan River in Changde, with the bridge and city towers in the haze behind.Metal.lunchbox / CC BY 3.0 · CC BY 3.0 Photo source ↗ Rights information ↗