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Changsha

9 articles

The town that makes fireworks

Liuyang, east of Changsha, has made fireworks for some 1,400 years and supplies much of the world. The making, the festival calendar and the industry the craft built are the three stages of a trade that has run on ritual demand.

Eating after dark on Pozi Street

Pozi Street is a thousand-metre street of food in old Changsha. The street itself, the Fire Palace at its heart and what the cooking actually is make the city's night eating one long habit, alive from dusk to well past midnight.

The tower that kept the city wall

Tianxin Pavilion is a gate tower on the only surviving piece of Changsha's old city wall. The wall, the revolution that dismantled it and the tower standing today are the three stages the old enclosure went through.

The museum and the kiln

The Hunan Museum holds the province's excavated past, from Mawangdui silks to the underglaze-painted wares of the Changsha kilns. Its building, its route through the galleries and its ceramics are the three ways the collection is laid out for visitors.

Three Han tombs and a woman in silk

Three sealed Han tombs were excavated at Mawangdui, Changsha, between 1972 and 1974. The three mounds hold an accidental discovery, a woman in silk and the Han south her tomb goods describe, a working southern economy read like a farm inventory.

A thousand-year school under the mountain

Yuelu Academy was founded in 976 below Yuelu Mountain and never stopped teaching. Its founders, its masters and the university that grew out of the compound are the three stages of one school's long continuity.

The sandbar in the middle of the river

Orange Isle is a five-kilometre sandbar in the Xiang at Changsha. How the island formed, the poem written at its tip and the park it became are three turns in the long working life of a single river sandbar.

Two rivers, one long city

Changsha has been organised by the Xiang River for two thousand years. The crossing that joined the banks by boat and bridge, the port that made Changsha a rice market, and the river still running through the present city are three faces of the same water.

Needlework made on a silk ground

Xiang embroidery grew from the household needlework of Hunan women into one of China's four famous embroidery styles. The craft, the subjects it chooses and the houses that keep it are the three things that hold the style together today.