From the journal

Kimchi in Yanji: A Year of Preparation and Fermentation

A Yanji-listed heritage craft begins well before winter: fish sauce, chili, garlic and cabbage arrive on different seasonal schedules. A regional product record describes how salted leaves are seasoned and fermented, while a 2025 public demonstration by inheritor Kim Songyue joins food-making to transmission.

A winter batch begins months earlier

The national intangible-heritage entry for the Yanji-listed kimchi technique gives the winter batch a long preparation calendar: fish sauce is made in spring, chili and garlic are readied in early autumn, and various vegetables may take about six months to grow. When the leaves are finally salted and seasoned, ingredients from different parts of the year meet in one vessel.

A 2014 geographical-indication profile records Yanbian chili cabbage across eight county-level jurisdictions of the prefecture. It names autumn cabbage, chili, apple pear and glutinous-rice paste among the regional ingredients. The 2014 profile also describes the work around a batch: harvesting and moving cabbages, grinding chili, pounding garlic and preparing a cellar, with neighbors exchanging techniques. The jar begins as a crop calendar and a set of household tasks.

Salted leaves receive the seasoning

The first salting softens the vegetable before the seasoning is spread through it. The regional product profile describes washing the cabbage after salting, letting it drain, then applying the sauce between the leaves from the inside outward. The mix can combine chili, garlic and ginger with apple pear, rice paste, vegetables and other additions. A heritage description also names cabbage and radish and records the use of prepared salt.

That order matters to the texture of the finished food: salt draws water from the leaves; washing removes some of it; seasoning has to reach the layers before the cabbage is packed away. The work happens leaf by leaf, combining ingredients chosen for heat, fragrance and a sauce that will cling during storage.

The cellar completes the transformation

After seasoning, the cabbage goes into a jar and then into cool storage for fermentation. The geographical-indication profile describes a low-temperature maturation, while the heritage entry identifies cellar storage as the final stage. In the region’s long cold season, the cellar gives a winter batch time to change: fermentation alters the cabbage’s texture and brings the salt, chili and seasoning into a single flavor.

The preparation therefore extends beyond the day when the jar is filled. Spring fish sauce, autumn aromatics, vegetables grown across several months and a cool cellar carry work into the winter table. The process preserves vegetables and preserves a calendar of when ingredients are gathered, prepared and allowed to mature.

Trays of kimchi and other pickled vegetables for sale at a market stall.
Kimchi and pickled vegetables at Yanji’s former Oriental Riverside Market before its July 19, 2026 move to 2599 Shenhua Street.

A craft appears on a public stage

The national heritage list records “Kimchi-Making Technique (Korean Ethnic Kimchi-Making Technique)” as project VIII-228, added in 2014; Yanji is the applicant locality and Yanji Friendship Co. the named protection organization. The entry preserves the technique’s seasonal calendar and preparation sequence as part of a local record.

On 17 August 2025, representative inheritor Kim Songyue demonstrated Yanbian kimchi-making at a festival in Yanji with her daughter and grandson. The event also included a transmission ceremony. The family members shared a public demonstration of the same kind of knowledge that begins with preparing ingredients and ends with a stored batch: handling, timing and judgment learned across generations.

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Photo credits and rights
  1. Kimchi and pickled vegetables at Yanji’s former Oriental Riverside Market before its July 19, 2026 move to 2599 Shenhua Street.Source: Travel China, an official Ministry of Culture and Tourism website; photographer not stated. · Rights status unknown Photo source ↗