A ring of blossoms around a coiled bun is the image most closely associated with Xunpu today. Yet flowers are only part of the picture. Hands opening oysters, a net needing attention and the textured wall of a shell house belong to the same coastal community. Putting them back in the frame changes the meaning of the famous headwear.
Xunpu is a settlement on Quanzhou’s coastal edge, known for the customs of its women. The floral arrangement is called zanhua or zanhuawei. For a visitor, it can become a memorable portrait; for local wearers, it belongs to a larger world of appearance, work and social occasions. The difference need not make the visitor’s experience less enjoyable. It makes the skill being shared more interesting than a costume acquired solely for a photograph.
