Coffee arrived in Shanghai as foreign trade and new urban habits grew after the port opened in 1843. In Hongkou, shipping and dock activity helped create demand for places where sailors, merchants and residents could sit over a cup. Local history accounts describe an early independently operated café in the district in the late nineteenth century, distinct from coffee served as an adjunct to a Western-style restaurant.
By the 1920s, cafés had become more than a place to buy a drink. Writers and cultural groups used them as meeting places, adding a new kind of social room to a city already shaped by markets, tea houses, streets and reading rooms.

